TRAVELING FOR GENEALOGY: Expectation vs Reality
Back in December I wrote Traveling for Genealogy: Virtual and In person in which I note all the things I have experienced in planning for a genealogy related trip. Because the trip I was taking in May was NOT ostensibly for genealogy and I was not to have any control over dates, times etc, I went with a “whatever happens, happens attitude.” I did not want to encourage expectations which were not possible to full-fill. I did not reach out in advance to places I might have occasion to visit, simply because I wasn’t even sure of I would have the opportunity to visit them.
As I have recounted this trip was partly to allow my friend Denise to visit Canterbury where her direct ancestor Robert CUSHMAN lived and was instrumental in organizing the sailing of the Mayflower. As luck had it Denise was not able to go, but I was able to wander around Canterbury the evening we arrived and the next morning and find all of the places I had mapped out in advance related to Robert CUSHMAN.
So in this case I was quite successful. [I will take up the CUSHMAN story in another Blog post.]
The other possible opportunities were to happen upon leaving Leed’s Castle on our way south to Tenterden. I had asked our tour guide, Ben SIMS and driver, Tony GILBERT, if it might be possible to exit Leeds Castle via Chegworth Road that led to Ulcombe Road, then turns into Tilden Road, rather than taking the B2163. The advantage of going with a tour company like Blue Roads /Back Roads Touring is that it is at their discretion to accommodate such requests. They checked it out via Google Maps and agreed. I had shown them a couple of screen shots of what I was looking for as well as my blog post about the TILDENs.
Now this was a true English country lane, replete with hedgerows and our ride was an 18 passenger Mercedes Coach. However, with an experienced driver it was easily managed. Giving true meaning to back roads touring as we did go off the beaten track. Here’s a view from the coach. Thank you Ben and Tony and my tour group for allowing me this opportunity.
It maybe added an extra 10-15 minutes to our journey but this was the reward. Seeing the Old half timber frame 15th- 16th century TILDEN Houses first hand.
We made our way to the town of Tenterden and the spire of St Mildred’s Church could be seen from quite a distance, as seen in this old postcard looking north from Six Fields Lane.
The 15th century tower was built from funds from the wealthy citizens (wool merchants?) of Tenterden and is constructed of local Bethersden marble. It stands at 200 feet above sea level and is itself 125 feet high. The coast of France can be seen from the top of the tower on a clear day. The tower is visible to ships in the Channel and previously had a beacon at its top. Local tradition has it that it was lit during the arrival of the Spanish Armada and perhaps to guide ships to Tenterden when it was one of the “limbs” (additions) of the original Cinque Ports. The Cinque Ports, prounouced “sink” were a confederation of originally five ports, during the reign of Edward the Confessor (1042–1066). These ports were granted the local profits and certain autonomous privileges in exchange for providing ships and protection. They are mentioned in the Magna Carta of 1297. [More on the Magna Carta when I post about my visit to Temple Church in London.]
We proceeded into town of Tenterden and parked in the car park on Station Road and St Mildred’s was a short walk away. Here are my first close-up views of St Mildred.
Upon reaching the front door I was met with this, “St. Mildred’s Church is temporarily closed. This is because work is taking place which will improve the building for both the church and the community of Tenterden…” I laughed out loud. This was not the first time this had happened to me when visiting an old church in England.
So I wandered around the building to see if there was another opening. And of course there was, and this one had some young workmen there and I asked permission to have a look see, since I had come all the way from America and they kindly obliged. Having done the other part of my research, I knew this church had a unique 15th century barrel vaulted ceiling with hand carved bosses. Even though, said ceiling it is not even mentioned in the write-up about it in England’s Thousand Best Churches. Tenterden church is dedicated to St Mildred and this dedication is an uncommon one in england with only a handful of ST Mildred chrches. St Mildred was a very pious and revered lady who became Abbess of the Abbey at Minster on the island of Thanet, Kent. She died the 13th of July 734 and was originally buried in her beloved abbey on Thanet. Her relics were later transferred to a shrine at St Augustine’s Abbey at Canterbury, which was one of the most important monasteries in medieval England. St Augustine’s was plundered under Henry VIII’s “Suppression of the Monasteries.” More can be read about St Mildred here. What happened to her remains I have not ascertained. St Mildred was the great-great-granddaughter of the King of Kent, Ethelbert. The one thing you find is historical connections everywhere in England. And of course a slightly more personal connection was my grandmother was named Helen “Mildred” an uncommon name on my mother’s side or anywhere in my tree. There is no record of why she was given the middle name Mildred. My TILDEN connection is on my father’s side through Judith TILDEN who married William PABODIE the 27th of June 1693 at Little Compton, Newport, Rhode Island. Judith’s mother in Law was Elizabeth ALDEN born 31st of MAY 1624 at Plymouth, Massachusetts. She was the daughter of Mayflower voyagers: John ALDEN and Priscilla MULLINS.
Looking at the outside doors of the tower, into the Nave and up at the barrel vaulted ceiling. I looked for the baptismal font but could not find it ( the workman did not know where it was either although I looked under canvases and tarps.) However, as I gazed up at the ceiling I thought of my ancestors Stephen TILDEN baptized here in 1629, my 9th great grandfather back to his grandfather Thomas born in 1551 and married here in 1576 to Alice BIGGE. The ceiling reminded me of a ships hull or the woodworking on an ornate chest and I speculated that some of the ship builders who were active just south of Tenterden at the hamlet of Small Hythe had been responsible for its construction. Small Hythe stood on a branch of the Rother estuary and was a busy shipbuilding port in the 15th century. The Rother estuary led out to Rye Harbor. Small Hythe silted up and ceased as a shipbuilding place.
Above are assorted views inside. Outside I saw one old monument to a BIGGE (Stephan TILDEN married Alice BIGGE), but did not have time to explore at length. English Daisies appearing through cracks at front of St Mildred’s. The old tombs of a BIGGE, the sundial above the porch, long view of St Mildreds, a mermaid rose which was a surprise [The Mermaid Rose is a hybrid climber bred in 1906 by English horticulturist William Paul and son. Parentage is Rosa bracteata x unnamed tea. William Paul (1822–1905) was an English horticulturalist and writer, known for his book “The Rose Garden.” Not to mention we were to spend the night at the Mermaid Inn at Rye] and a final view of the tower.
Then a quick dash down the lane to the Tenterden Town Hall where I hoped to pop in for a look at the plaque listing the mayors of Tenterden which included my immigrant , Stephen TILDEN. But in what I considered an absurd sense of humor of the gods this is what I found. The Town Hall was also undergoing renovation ” We make Plans, god laughs”. [It took me 3rd trips to London to see the Elizabeth Tower where it was not shrouded in scaffolding and cloth. Known to most as Big Ben—The bell inside the tower, known as the Great Bell, is the one that is actually named “Big Ben”.]
A broader view of the Town Hall. No entrance at all.
Across the street was the Lemon Tree Pub. Housed in the 14th century “Wealden Hall House” building, reportedly visited by King Henry VIII. So giving me an idea of what things might have looked like back at the time the TILDENs lived here. Obviously the Town Hall has been updated and modernized over time.
And finally on the way back to the car park I threw a coin in the Tenterden Wishing Well which benefits the Savannah Trust. It was previously the The Brewery Well on Coombe Lane dug in 1893 and originally powered by a wind pump now re-envisioned as a wishing well. My wish is that if I make it back to Tenterden the renovations are complete. Anyone happening upon this who may have photos of the plaque or the baptismal font willing to share drop me a line.
Thus the adventures of traveling for genealogy. Sometimes what you don’t have access to—becomes as much the story, as what you do. And cast your eyes about—no telling what you might find. Finding a familiar rose was certainly a surprise. And the ceiling was still as visible as ever.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved
Wheaton Wood 
GOOD MORNING..(05.30am) Kelly’Hello.You continue to amaze me !This latest posting is a revelation… The detailed minutiae of reporting, is another colossous’ – which delights me.My connections with your choice of venue’TENTERDENare via my long standing – -membership,of (The Lord”s Church.)In Tenterden, for a number of years was A.E.Winstanley -Full Time Evangelist.A lovely “Brother-in-the Lord”As well as his Evangelistic duties..he was into “Publishing”His knowledge and understanding of the “Scripture’s”..was incomparable.( A Lancastrian.)In fact, He “Immersed” both Joyce and myself..in 1965 at the ” Kirkby – Nott’s ” meeting place..'( Beulah Road )He was the epitome, of a Biblical Christian.Upon his passing..he was sadly missed…He worked, with several of our congregations’in the U.K.His Preaching 30/45 minutes – – passed- like 15.(The “Lord’s Church”)..’is not a Denomination)( Plant a TULIP Bulb…you get TULIP )There are Hundreds ofCongregations, in the USA. ● No Governing Body..other than The Scriptures.●( Jesus did the Planting ) In Britain….ie..Methodist’s have lost..over 2,000 members..and closed..500 Buildings. Upon my understanding of the Scriptures..the present World-Wide Political “Shambles”..point decisively to the End-of-Times Scenarios….But…we can ramble – on. Within my Immobile State,I continue to “Send-out”-the MOBILE PULPIT e.mails. Keep on Travelling..!…andReporting…!Thank You. Many Regards’ – -Blessing’s, Peace, and Joy.Geoff Sheldon.Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
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