Deciphering our past Part 3 : FGC53429+ DUKES & NOBILITY IN FRANCE
Posted on May 30, 2026 Leave a Comment
Introduction
In this chapter we switch our focus from the parent SNP FGC22501 to a specific sub-clade SNP FGC53429+, but still with our eyes on the Sun Wheel symbol. Our target area for FGC53429+ on the map above is in Gallia Belgica. This map show the early Celtic Tribes of about 200 BCE. The previously mentioned Ad(t)uatuci Tribe in the middle top. I have added the areas of early La Tène Boii concentration about 450 BCE [green outlines]. The FGC53429+ descendants were bishops and hereditary episcopal nobility of Reims, Trier, Verdun, Metz, Laon, Cologne, Utrecht, Lincoln, St-Davids, Durham, Bruges, and Antwerp. Is it possible that they were descendants of the Ad(t)uatuci and later the Suessiones Tribe that each had versions of the Sun Wheel on their coins?
The following is the timeline of FGC22501 to FGC53429. In essence traveling form Bohemia to Belgica about 574 current age.
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501 appears to have originated in Bohemia about 2200 BCE [As above]
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501>FGC22538 originated about 2153 BCE
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501>FGC22538>FGC22516 originated 1591 BCE
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501>FGC22538>FGC22516>FGC22518 originated about 1585 BCE
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501> as above FGC22518>FGC42117 originated 1469 BCE All the above likely staying in Bohemia
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501>as above FGC22518>FGC42117> FGC42109 originated about 998 BCE perhaps beginning to migrate
- R1b>U152>L2>FGC22501>as above FGC22518>FGC42117> FGC42109> FGC53429 originated about 574 CE in Belgica.
Symbols of Power
Symbols reduce the infinite complexity of the world or the universe into manageable, recognizable pieces, allowing for immediate understanding. They are effective in branding and recognizing, power, authority or affiliation. They are evocative and have the capacity to move people, acting as catalysts for passion, belief and sometimes action, as in a holy war. So might an ancient Sun Wheel be both an external and internal symbol used to identify in this case both secular and spiritual power. From ancient Celtic seers to later marquis? Heraldic designs came into general use among European nobility in the 12th century. Systematic, heritable heraldry began at the beginning of the 13th century. But before that we see the Sun wheel still in use in Anglo-Saxon coins 690-715. Although difficult to piece together this early symbol dating back as far as the Royal Game of Ur 2600-2400 BCE we can see the Sun Wheel symbol. The Wheel itself is invented about 3500 BCE. The Domestication of the horse perhaps around 2200 BCE on the Eurasian Steepe. In many ancient traditions the sun god or goddess is responsible for pulling the sun across the sky each day via horse and chariot. Those who can understand and explain the powers of god and the universe are both revered and feared. They co-opt the power of the gods.
Due to the extensive work of Vanessa Van der Beke we have found that the 5 or sometimes 3 annulets [rings] are frequent symbols appearing on the Blason (Coat of Arms) of families and places associated with FGC2253429+. Is this a coincidence? Almost all arms with annulets belong to marquess [episcopal nobility]. (However, not all marquess have arms with rings / annulets). There were many places and families in France and elsewhere having arms with rings. Vanessa was able to connect them to the palatine counts (episcopal counts) of the Carolingians and their successors. A sampling below.






Timeline
- 100-57 BCE Aduatuci coins minted with 5 annulets
- 57 BCE Dispersal of surviving Aduatuci after their conquest by Ceasar
- 140 CE Vicus Beda (Bitburg) founded. Bitburg was stopping place for travelers from Lyon through Metz and Trier to Cologne.
- 400 CE End of Roman rule & takeover by Frankish Tribes
- 690-715 CE Frisian Sceattas Anglo Saxon coins minted with 5 annulets
- 715 CE Frankish Castrum Bedense (Bitburg) became the capital of the Bidgau (Bitburg province)
- 720 CE, the noble Frankish woman Bertrada founded an abbey in Prüm, close to Bitburg and Trier
- 768 CE Charlemagne made Prüm his personal abbey with possessions in Belgium, the Netherlands, France & Germany with 300 monks
- 795 – 855 CE Lotharius I, King of Lorraine was buried in the abbey of Prüm . The abbey of Prûmh had a villa in Erdorf near Bitburg, which belonged to vassals of the counts of Vianden who had arms with annulets. Erdorf’s coat of Arms had 5 annulets
- Count Wigeric(k) From 915 or 916, he was the count palatine of Lotharingia. He was the founder of the House of Ardennes. He died 9 July 953 He married Cunegonde of the Carolingans (from whom the van der beke line descends)
- Count Gerald (Gozello) of Metz (911-942/3) married Oda of Saxony (905-965)
- Bruno the Great (925-965) his brother Otto I appointed him Duke of Lorraine.
- Van der Beke arms and the arms used by the military commanders and masters of accounts from the duchy of Bar from the former duchy of Lorraine, Arms 5 silver annulets on a red field [see above]
- c1147 Geoffroy de Vienne et de Louppy with Arms with 5 annulets, gold on red field [see above]
Background on the Noble Titles
Following the collapse of the Holy Roman Empire the Merovingians were the ruling family of the Franks c481-751 who established the largest and most powerful kingdom in Western Europe. They followed the Roman laws and were served by mayors of the palace who liked weak kings so they could increase their own power and territory. Until one of them grabbed the highest power and became king himself and ancestor of Charlemagne creating the dynasty of the Carolingians.
Charlemagne (748-814) was King of the Franks from 768, King of the Lombards from 774, and Emperor of what is now known as the Carolingian Empire from 800-814. When Charlemagne became emperor he had one big concession: the imperial title belonged to the ancient Roman empire, so to continue it, he had to share it with the highest entity in Rome: the pope. The title of emperor belonged worldly 50% to the emperor and ecclesiastically 50% to the pope and the realm was called the Roman-German Empire. During his reign Charlemagne made great efforts on behalf of medieval education. Later the Ottonian emperors (919-1024) of the German or Saxon dynasties expanded them further, mainly through abbey and chapter schools. Children of the nobility, ministerials, and the wealthy attended these schools. Precursors to formalized noble classes were high-status clans, warrior elites, or landholding families before the standardization of hereditary titles. About 1250 in France the proto-nobility emerges before the introduction of marquis sometimes changed to: sire, prince, marquis, margrave, knight, page, esquire, or simply count (earl). In the medieval context, the Latin word ‘marchio’ meant among other things: marquis, margrave, marshal, but equally count palatine, episcopal count, accountant, chancellor, governor, diplomat, bailiff, or counselor.
By virtue of his ecclesiastical position, the Marquis or Margrave was usually educated in both secular and ecclesiastical law. In addition to guarding and defending the imperial or royal domain, the palace, and/or borderland, a Marquis was also frequently employed as a diplomat. A marquisate is the territory, domain, or rank held by a marquis, marquess, or marchioness. It could be an entire county such as Flanders or only a part of it like Vienne (le-château) in the county of Bar.
Furthermore, it could be a secular or ecclesiastical marquisate, in contrast to a secular duchy which contained multiple counties. In a modern context, a marquisate roughly corresponds to a Ministry of Foreign Affairs and a duchy to a Ministry of the Interior, both assisted by the Ministries of Justice and Defense.
A key element of Emperor Otto I’s (912-973) domestic policy was to strengthen ecclesiastical authorities at the expense of the nobility who threatened his power. So he filled the ranks of the episcopate with his own relatives and with loyal chancery clerks. As protector of the Church he invested them with the symbols of their offices, both spiritual and secular , so the clerics were appointed as his vassals through a commendation ceremony. The bishops had the right to appoint a temporary “count for life” (comte viager), theoretically subject to the authority of the bishop. These counts were selected from the noble family of Ardennes. Because of the duality of the imperial title their servants were equal : this meant a bishop and a king were equal, a duke and a count palatine (marquess) were equal. One holding the worldly power and the other the ecclesiastical power. They were always second : to the king of France, England, the dukes of Bar, the counts of Flanders. But as ecclesiastic equals they served as regents when the worldly emperor, king, duke, count was absent we replaced his authority.
The division of power between church and state, pope and emperor had serious consequences because everything needed to be divided. The emperor had kings, the kings appointed dukes (who controlled a whole territory ie.: Lorraine). The pope had bishops, the bishops appointed count palatines (seneshals who controlled border lands called marks, hence the name of margraves – mark counts – later changed into marquess). These margraves served also as episcopal counts protecting the bishoprics, when the bishop obtained worldly power from the emperor he became a countal bishop (Verdun) or a prince bishop like in Cologne, Utrecht, Liège and Durham. Over centuries the pope lost more of his power and the Roman-German empire changed into the German Empire.
If you look closely this coin contains the symbol of the Sun Wheel. It appears on coins from the Macedonian through the Byzantine Dynasties. it is a sign of power.

Case Study : van ver beke
At the time of the Dukes of Lorraine, beginning in 959, Upper and Lower Lorraine, the royal lineage of the House of Ardennes (Verdun) was a marquisate of the Holy Roman Empire vis-à-vis the Kingdom of France. Van der Beke, comes from the royal family of the House of Ardennes (Verdun), they also possessed, on the border between the Kingdom of France and the Holy Roman Empire, the count-bishopric marquisates of:
- Moncel-lez-Lunéville for the Count-Bishopric of Metz.
- Vienne (later Vienne-le-Château) for the Count-Bishopric of Verdun
- Louppy (later Louppy-le-Château)
- Chardogne for the Count-Bishopric of Toul, which they had acquired through investiture.
- County of Voncq (possibly) next to the originally Merovingian palace of Attigny, which briefly served as a Christmas and summer residence under the Carolingians,
Returning to the Blason (Coat of Arms) of the families and places associated with FGC2253429+ we see how the symbol was adopted by families and places alike. It reminds me of a family heirloom whose provenance has been lost to time but whose story can be read in its symbol. Or in this case the YDNA.
Episcopal counts like van der Beke made their titles hereditary and no emperor or king could intervene. The titles were open to either males or females so you could have a marquess and a marchioness. We see this in this text of the prince-bishop and count palatine Anthony van der Beke. The episcopal principality of Metz was a bishopric state of the Holy Roman Empire. This State is distinct from the diocese of Metz, founded in the 4th century, initially subordinate to the ecclesiastical province of Trier, over which the spiritual authority of the bishop is exercised, and which extends over part of the Lorraine area. The episcopal principality is for its part the set of territories (possibly disjointed) over which the bishop exercises the temporal power of a lord, disposing of high, medium or low justice depending on the case. The bishops of Metz, who initially came under the Duchy of Lorraine, obtained imperial immediacy as temporal lords of the episcopal principality in the 11th century, and were part of the college of ecclesiastical princes at the Diet of the Empire. In the 11th century, the influence of the Holy Roman emperors faded; the royal counts become dukes of Lorraine, while the bishops, residing on the spot, concentrated more and more in their hands the temporal power the exercise of which they delegated to their counts palatine; these become “episcopal counts. Verdun was part of the middle kingdom of Lotharingia and in 1374 it became a free imperial city of the Holy Roman Empire. The Bishopric of Verdun formed together with Tull (Toul) and Metz the Three Bishoprics, which were annexed by France in 1552.
The Sun Wheel does not belong to FGC22501 exclusively or its descendants— However following the DNA and this symbol shows a connection that does tell a story. We can never fully know the truth of a thing, but we can follow it deeply and perhaps get a richer view of history for doing so. This story may get further chapters as more discoveries are made. I hope it has whetted your appetite to dig a little deeper into your own stories.
And here’s where it came full circle. In part one I showed the Cross of St Cuthbert showing the familiar symbol . It happened to pop up on my Facebook feed. I sent the photo to Vanessa. She offered an explanation Anthony van der Beke (de Beck) was the bishop and chancellor of the Flemish count and the county of Flanders Seger. Van der Beke traveled with gold, emeralds etc as gifts from the Flemish count. This may be how the Cross of St Cuthbert makes its way to Durham Cathedral in 697 CE. We tend toward thinking people lived in isolation. They did not. Whether we want to draw discrete lines around countries, cultures, art or people—they will ever defy our attempts to hem them in. There is something in that which comforts me and my historical world view. We discover, we fashion we re-fashion. “There’s nothing new under the sun.” Remember that next time you pick up a dice—
More Exploration
- First Horse Warriors (exploring the Botai culture of the Eurasian Steppe) and Native Horse PBS documentary NOVA: Season 46, Episode 9 2021
- The Horse the Wheel and Language: How Bronze Age riders from the Eurasian Steppes shaped the Modern World. by David W Anthony 2007
- Who We Are and How We Got Here: ancient DNA and the New Science of the Human Past David Reich. 2018
- Celtic Art: Symbols & Imagery. Miranda Green 1996
Kelly Wheaton ©2026 All Rights Reserved
Deciphering our past Part One: DNA to Decoration—following the trail of one YSNP FGC22501
Posted on May 24, 2026 1 Comment
Introduction
This blog post or what may be a series of blog posts is a collaboration of Vanessa Van der Beke and myself. She has done a lot of the heavy lifting research wise in often esoteric old texts. It has been an unexpected journey that I don’t think we could have ever imagined. You may wish to read some of the earlier posts on this page. To make a long story short my husband did a Full Genome Corporation Y Elite DNA test in 2014. In his sample a series of Y-SNPS (aka mutations) were newly discovered and named. They are FGC22500-FGC22550. The most important to our work was the SNP FGC22501. The R-U152-FGC22501: Celtic U152/L2/FGC22501 and subclades project was approved in October of 2015 and has grown to over 225 members nearly 11 years later.
At the time we had no idea where this SNP would lead us. We were very fortunate that the sequencing of ancient human skeletons led to an early match with one of the so-called Headless Roman Gladiators in the town of York, England. This individual known as 6Drif-22 was dated at about about 100-400 AD and back in 2016 this individual was the only ancient to share the SNP FGC22501 —his closest population affinity was with Belgium. Vanessa calls Belgium home and her family goes Van der Beke, comes from the royal family of the House of Ardennes with Wigeric’s son Gozlin (911–942/43) the dynasty’s ancestor and carrier of the FGC22501 SNP. More on that later.
Following the YDNA via YSNPS
The SNP path of FGC22501 is as follows roughly (TIMELINE within R1b):
- M173 SNP c. 20,000 BCE
- M343 c. 17,000 BCE R1b (very pervasive carried by over 110 Million men)
- U152 c. 2700 BCE
- L2 c. 2500 BCE
- FGC22501 2450 BCE (the most recent discoveries may ous this date earlier)
The next discoveries that pushed us back from 6Drif-22 Roman age skeleton in York, England to an individual of the Únětice Culture from Jinonice , Prague 5, Czech Republic named I7202 dated 2200–1700 BCE. It is important to note that even at this early date Celtic tribes represented many different YDNA lines within the R1b umbrella. The core Western European subclade, splits into the two dominant branches: P312 and U106 . P312 (S116): Extremely is common in France, Iberia (Spain/Portugal), and the British Isles. These are the major subclades, with our own FGC22501 falling under U152>L2 .
- L21 (M529): Common in the British Isles (Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Brittany).
- DF27 (S250): Dominant in Iberia and the Basque region.
- U152 (S28): Prevalent in the Alpine region and Northern Italy, often associated with Italics and Celts.
- U106 (S21): Prevalent in the Netherlands, Northern Germany, and Scandinavia, strongly associated with Germanic tribes
Although a subclade may be prevalent in certain areas other subclades are often well represented too. Humankind has been mixing it up for a very long time. So we have called FGC22501 a Celtic SNP but it has lots of company and going back in time it will be preceded with other cultures, not just Celtic. We got lucky and a few more FGC22501 skeletons were discovered within a 50 mile radius of Prague and representing somewhat more recent individuals from Radosevice cemetary dated c309-190 BCE named 21736 Hrobcice, I15951 Radosevice, and I14984 Radosevice. Then was added I18837 Széles földek, Hungary c320-200 BCE. And more recently we have 4 new individuals I38966, I39176, I39356, I39358 from the Karain Cave in Turkey. To place them in order of age see table below. So with these new samples we are able to reach back between 5000-7000 years just based on a YDNA SNP discovered originally in my husband.
| Name | Location | Age | Period | Notes |
| I38966 | Karain cave, Turkey | Details to be announced | ? | FGC22501 |
| I39176 | Karain cave, Turkey | ? | ? | FGC22501 |
| I39356 | Karain cave, Turkey | ? | ? | FGC22501 |
| I39358 | Karain cave, Turkey | ? | ? | FGC22501 |
| I7202 | Prague 5, Jinonice, Zahradnictví, Czech | 2200–1700 BCE | Bronze Age | Únětice Culture FGC22500 |
| I14984 | Radosevice, Teplice, Czech | 330–280 BCE | Iron Age | La Tene; FGC22538 > FGC22516 |
| I15951 | Radosevice, Teplice, Czech | 290-250 BCE | Iron Age | La Tene; FGC22538 |
| 18837 | Széles földek, Sopron, Hungary | 320-200 BCE | Iron Age | La Tene FGC22538> PAGES00073 |
Symbol of Interest: Sun Wheel or Halo Cross
Dating back over 4,500 years, the Royal Game of Ur was Excavated in the 1920s by Sir Leonard Woolley in the Royal Tombs of Ur (now Iraq). The rules of the game were lost for centuries but were deciphered by British Museum curator Irving Finkel from a cuneiform tablet from 177 BCE. This is the first know instance of a curious symbol that has been interpreted with many meanings. Here is a wikipedia photo From the British museum:
The blocks with five circles or annulets become an important part of our story. In many ancient civilizations, God was represented by the sun in the center. Frequently used representation in Middle Eastern, Celtic, East Roman, West Roman, Merovingian, and Holy Roman empires was a sun cross based on a vertical or diagonal representation of the sun with the spring and autumn equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices or even the cardinal directions.

Wikipedia Ta’oulunga cc
Many ancient peoples observed the power of the sun God in the heavens. This symbol is adopted in many cultures. Later the divine stewards obtained their sun-based sun wheel through investiture via the divine status of the kings. SO this symbol, together with DNA allows us to trace some very early connections. The same 5 circles are seen in a natural phenomenon called a Halo Cross.
Some early examples:
So various cultures adopted this symbol into their decorations. The wheel was very important to ancient civilizations. The clay wheel from Spišský Štvrtok (Slovakia) is an archaeological artifact from the Early Bronze Age (around 1700–1500 BC). These wheels were small not for use but found in burials. This drawing of one from STUDIA HERCYNIA XV PREHISTORY OF EUROPE AS SEEN FROM ITS CENTRE Czech lands from Paleolithic to the end of the La Tène period in European context by By Jan Bouzek pg 41. “The end of Middle Bronze Age brought also changes in religious ideas. At time that roughly corresponds to period of Akhnathon’s religious reformation and his worship of sun god Aton (14 th century B.C.) also in the north of Europe reform brings to the centre of religious interest Sun god and/or Sun hero. “pg 40



Next Chapter we will dive into why this symbol matters to FGC22501.
Kelly Wheaton ©2026 All Rights Reserved
Changes in Genealogical DNA Testing
Posted on November 5, 2025 Leave a Comment
Back in 2005, Francis Collins in his book The Language of Life: DNA and the Revolution in Personalized Medicine predicted that DNA testing for health was on the horizon within 10 years and that your doctor would routinely order DNA tests for you. That hasn’t happened as quickly as he thought, but companies like 23andme built their databases by offering medically relevant Direct to Consumer (DTC) DNA testing. 23andMe has a database of about 13 million and overall the top 4 companies: Ancestry DNA, 23andMe, My Heritage, and Family TreeDNA have over 53 million test kits. Some of those may overlap so roughly 40-50 million people have done DTC DNA testing.
My Heritage and Family Tree DNA and Gene by Gene
Several things have piqued my curiosity of late. As announced in 2024 “Family Tree DNA has been a valued partner and friend of My Heritage for well over a decade. Notably, since the launch of My Heritage DNA in 2016, Family Tree DNA’s in-house lab, Gene by Gene, based in Houston, Texas, has provided My Heritage with our DNA processing services.” And furthermore “Family Tree DNA customers can transfer their family trees to My Heritage, and to continue building them on My Heritage. Family Tree DNA users can now easily transfer their family trees to My Heritage for free, after providing consent on both Family Tree DNA and My Heritage.” More recently My Heritage announced in October that is was Upgrading Its DNA Tests to 2X Whole Genome Sequencing to be carried out by Gene by Gene. And then just days ago Family Tree DNA announced 30X Full Genome Sequencing. “The All-in-one bundle includes your genome data, health analyses, and reports” for $379 on sale. Not quite the $99 WGS testing that was anticipated a few years ago but getting closer.
The above collaboration and new offerings may be a sign of the health of these two companies under Gene by Gene. And their pivot to Health offerings is intriguing. I wonder whether at a future date their may be options to combine them. Who knows?
23andMe
Meanwhile in March 2025, 23andMe filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection and announced that the company was planning on selling substantially all of its assets. So its long term status is in question. Who will acquire the assets and will the data still be available to testers? Your guess is as good as mine. One of my favorite features at 23andMe was their Chromosome browser. No word on if it may come back. If sold would the genealogy component just be a casualty? So for now I can’t recommend 23andMe due to a high level of uncertainty. Sad because it has about 13 Million testers.
Ancestry
In 2019 Ancestry offered AncestryHealth® their vision “was to empower people to take action to address potential health risks identified in their genes and family health history.” Then in 2020 they suspended that offering and returned “to deepen our focus on family history, including AncestryDNA®, which remains an important part of our commitment to family history.” Ancestry has over 25 million tested and although the lack a chromosome browser are among the easiest to use especially for those already with a paid Ancestry subscription. It is also among the most expensive.
It looks like Ancestry’s focus will stay toward genealogy which is good news. It has the largest database of historical records with over 30 Billion. My Heritage has a bit more focus on International Records and has about 20 billion records.
Family Tree DNA
For now FTDNA remains the best place for YDNA and mtDNA testing if you plan on looking for matches. The shifting landscape of DNA test is hard to predict. Ancestry offered YDNA tests years ago and then abruptly stopped in 2014, as they pivoted to atDNA tests only. The earliest YDNA tests at FTDNA were 12 marker test whereas today a 37 Marker test is generally considered a minimum.
Recommendations
People always want to know the best company to test at. That depends on your reason for testing.
- If you already subscribe to Ancestry or MyHeritage, testing atDNA is a no brainer especially at sale prices starting at $29
- Chromosome Browsers are included at FTDNA, MyHeritage and Living DNA
- A nice feature of 23andMe and Living DNA is they give your broad mtDNA , and if male: your YDNA Haplogroup
- FTDNA is the project based place to test YDNA, both YSNPS and YSTRS
- MyHeritage may bring more European matches for those with recent ancestry from Europe or Israel
- Living DNA has a strong emphasis on UK testers that may appeal to those with recent UK ancestry
- Full sequence mtDNA, with matching, is at FTDNA
- FTDNA & Living DNA allow uploads from other companies
Given sales this month especially around Black Friday, you could test at Ancestry and MyHeritage for less than $70 and upload to FTDNA and swim in all 3 ponds. If you return your MyHeritage in 2026 you will get 2X WGS!
Where it all ends up in a few years—who know? In the meantime databases grow and prices come down. The Ancestral origins continue to be refined. Whether they are improved each iteration is widely debated.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 All Rights Reserved
KENT The Garden of England Day Three Part Two: Faversham & Whitstable
Posted on September 2, 2025 Leave a Comment
We left Leed’s Castle for Whitstable a seaside town and the setting for the British TV detective series ‘Whitstable Pearl’ which I ended up watching after I returned home. First up is tour bus and our driver Tony.
Whitstable is full of shops, art galleries and places to eat oysters.


This was the site of the infamous Oyster Tasting by Charlotte that didn’t quite make it down.



The Duke of Cumberland hotel, Joyanne spotting me through the shop window and a few of the Beach huts.
Next stop was Faversham for a tour of the Shephers Neame Brewery. We had a bit of time to have a look about. In the following photo you can see the store front for the Brewery and on the far left you can barely see a tent set up for a street market. Since we had some free time I wandered down to have a look.

I had been looking for something for my friend Denise who couldn’t make the trip and I found it! A Crummles & Company enameled trinket box with a butterfly—which was her childhood nickname.
And then I spotted another one which I bought for myself. I had just been give the memoir “Raising Hare”, by my daughter for Mother’s Day. And finished it just before the trip. These are European Hares.


We have our own here in California. A photo of one from my back yard. They like to prune my plants at times!
Now back to our tour at Shephers Neame Brewery which was quite interesting, even though I am not a beer drinker.






I also couldn’t resist their collection of pub signs.



And the tasting.
And I found this chart quite interesting and comparable to similar ones for wine tasting
So whether you stop by for a tour or try their ales at your local pub, Enjoy!
We drove back to Leed’s Castle where we were to spend another night. We went out to eat at the nearby Park Gate Inn. We had a lovely meal and even though they were short staffed, Bamber, our waitress, took care of us to perfection! Then back to the Castle for another night’s sleep.



Whether day or night the gardens at Leeds Castle, put on a show.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 All Rights Reserved
KENT The Garden of England Day Two Part Two & Day Three Part One: Leeds Castle
Posted on September 2, 2025 Leave a Comment

We arrived at Leed’s Castle in the afternoon for a two night stay. I had written a bit about Leed’s Castle in an earlier blog post here. Leed’s Castle is confusing for many a tourist, as it is not located in Leeds, Yorkshire, but rather near Maidstone in Kent. About the year 857, Leeds Castle was a Saxon castle built of wood on 2 islands, in the middle of the River Len. It was owned by the Saxon chief, Led or Leed, and was known as the Manor of Esledes. We drove in from the east past the golf course. The Castle lies in an idyllic setting on 500 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Although I am sure a “day visit” to enjoy many of the attractions is quite lovely, but for me the best parts of Leed’s Castle were revealed in the late evening and early morning hours when the grounds are only open to those staying there. We were to spend two nights here. My room, which was supposed to be shared I had to myself, and it was huge. In total there were 4 sets of window, 3 overlooking Culpeper’s Garden and one the Car park. Room, the view over the garden and the 3 upstairs windows on left were my room.
I couldn’t have been more pleased to have such a lovely view of the garden. This was the site of the original Kitchen Garden named after the family that owned the Castle in the 17th century. In 1980 it was transformed by the landscaper designer Russell Page into a beautiful formal garden with a central Wisteria tree. My grandparents had a similar one in, albeit smaller, in their garden when I was growing up. The garden with formal box hedges is chock full of roses, iris, allium, poppies and assorted perennials.
This first evening we had a stroll around the grounds, although the castle itself was closed to all but the people who were staying on the island. Dinner was at the Castle View Restaurant. The food and the view did not disappoint.
On the way back to our room I caught a quick photo of Chuck and Joan.
Off to a great night’s sleep but woke early, which gave me the opportunity to wander about the grounds before anyone else was up!

Magical colors of the early morning light.





After my morning scramble about the grounds seeing many of my beloved Rhododendrons and Exbury Azaleas. The Exbury azaleas weere hybridized in England but from American deciduous azalea species. I was off to breakfast at the Castle View Restaurant and then for a guided tour of the castle.





From the front entrance the size and grandeur is less visible than from a distance. Inside is a textural delight. A mix of old a new.





Leeds Castle was host for a significant Middle East summit in 1978 when U.S., Israeli, and Egyptian foreign ministers met eventually leading to the Camp David Accords between Egypt and Israel. This was originally set to happen in London, but was moved to Leeds Castle for security reasons. Summit room top below.

The Dining hall is the home to an “altar piece” dating to about 1410. It shows 7 saints, 6 of whom are women. The gouging of the saints’ faces may have occurred in 1539 following the dissolution of Dartford Priory, a Domincan Nunnery, which is thought to have been the altarpiece’s probable original home.
There is much more to see but I was particularly interested in the pieces designed by Stéphan Boudin (1888-1967) Interior designer to for Lady Baillie as seen in above. And know for designing the red Room at the White House for Jacqueline Kennedy. My Room at Leeds Castle was called the Boudin Room. Two pieces below designed by Boudin.


There’s lots more to see, but I will leave it to you to visit the castle and explore further. Next up are visits to the towns of Faversham and Whitstable!
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved











































