KENT The Garden of England Day One Part One: Chartwell
Posted on June 17, 2025 1 Comment
When we were planning a trip to England, Denise’s first desire, was to go to Canterbury and I had always wanted to see Sissinghurst Gardens. Before Covid-19 there was a 3 day tour out of London that did just that but when I was looking last year it was no longer available. So after lots of searching we settled on Blue Roads/Back Roads Touring (Blue Roads in US) because it hit them both as well as many other places we wanted to see and their tours are limited to 18. (I have a preference for smaller groups.) After a delicious breakfast we all met outside by 9. Everyone on time and loaded up ahead of schedule.
We are on our way and headed to Chartwell, the home of Sir Winston Churchill for forty years. He bought the property in September 1922 and lived there until shortly before his death in January of 1965. Churchill’s architect, Phillip TILDEN, began work on the house in 1922. I believe that he comes from the line of ancient Kent TILDENs I previously wrote about. Chartwell has been restored and preserved to look as it did in the 1920–30s. It is owned by the National Trust. I have also been to the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, Blenheim Palace in Warwickshire. A very grand estate indeed. Americans often have a bit more interest in Churchill because many of them are related to him. His mother Jennie Jerome was the daughter of an American businessman. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries many American heiresses married British nobility. Often referred to as the “Dollar Princesses” their money helped British aristocrats the money to help them keep their estates which taxes were making it impossible for many to keep. The TV series Downton Abbey highlights one such fictional family.
Chartwell in contrast feels like a well loved home and garden. Much to my enjoyment the approach is via a lovely woodland garden complete with Rhododendrons. When I used to live in the woods I grew over 100 Rhododendron varieties.
This was the Sunday after the 80th anniversary of VE day (Victory in Europe for WWII) so there were exhibits commemorating the occasion throughout the grounds. As well as some folks in period dress. Quite Festive.
There are many things to see. And many things that are easy to miss. We were told by the attendant that the chess set in the foreground of this photo was on display for the very first time. It was made by the Municipal Fire Service of Antwerp of V-1 and V-2 materials. This is a stunning room full of light and the Calla Lily seat covers are 40’s style.
In any place one visits there are certain iconic or obligatory photos, and I do take those. For Sir Winston Churchill’s home at Chartwell, these are certainly ones.
But there are many things that just catch my eye, and yes many of them are flowers, doorways, windows etc. A smattering from Chartwell. I include 3 of Winston’s paintings.
One lovely little spot is the Marlborough Pavilion. It is decorated with scenes from the Battle of Blenheim of which Sir Winston’s ancestor the Duke of Marlborough was victorious. Sir Winston’s nephew, John Churchill did the painting as a birthday gift from Lady Churchill. Climbing roses and vines cover the pergola that leads up to the Pavilion.
I am grateful to Joan and Chuck for this photo. I was much happier than I look!
And this photo that appeals to me as a gardener and as a connoisseur of garden seating.
This teapot was a definite eye catcher. It is dated 1939. It is from the Dulyovo Porcelain Works. The company was established in 1832 in Moscow Oblast. I am happy for a better translation but I get roughly In Memory of the Allied Farm Exhibition 1939. I do not know its provenance but wonder if it was a gift from Russian Statesmen or citizens to Mrs Churchill. Claire Knight writes in Mrs Churchill Goes to Russia: The Wartime Gift Exchange between Britain and the Soviet Union : “During the years of the Anglo-Soviet Alliance (1941-45), Britain brimmed with an unprecedented enthusiasm for all things Russian.” I suspect that this was gift received by Mrs Churchill when she visited Russia. “The tour served as not only the official ‘thank you’ from the Soviet leadership, but also as the medium through which the Soviet populace were able to demonstrate their appreciation to Mrs Churchill and through her, the British people. ” Mrs Churchill and the English people had raised Ł7.5 Million for Red Cross Aid to Russia.
Sometimes it is the little things that catch our fancy. Be on the look out for yours.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON Day Four: Tower Hill
Posted on June 6, 2025 1 Comment
I slept in to 6:30 AM. I had mostly packed the night before. I suppose it is a bit of compulsive anxiety that causes that organizing and packing before being able to sleep. It allows me a more restful sleep knowing I am almost ready to go. Showered, dried my hair and went down to the solarium for breakfast. I was done, checked out and on my way by 9. Taking the Underground from Earl’s Court to Tower Hill takes 21 Minutes on the District Line.
Riding the subway you see a kaleidoscope of constantly changing people. Some are visitors like myself, who are trying to negotiate the peculiarities of the Underground and others are regulars who ride it daily. Cell phones are ubiquitous. They allow people to be doing something, but allow you to maintain the proper detachment from others [particularly when jammed in like sardines]. This morning there was a group of school children with matching tee shirts and backpacks and several teachers watching over them. The most likely people to engage with me were fellow travelers. This AM it was a man, about my son’s age, from Switzerland. Unlike my non-traveling self, I was not the one to initiate engagement, except when I needed help. “Does this train go to xyz?” “I think so, but I don’t live here,” was a typical interchange.
I arrived at Tower Hill Station, to yet another sunny, blue sky masterpiece. I had walked my way from the station to the hotel via Google Street view in advance of my trip. I had done this with many places so I would recognize them, and know where I was. In this case the hotel was steps from the train station however the entrance to the underground was around the corner. Some photos of the Roman Wall and Tower of London. As a side note Denise’s ancestor Robert CUSHMAN stayed very close to here.
The large sundial with historical timeline is worth a look. Then I arrived at my destination the Tower Suites Blue Orchid.
Since it was still before noon and check-in was 3 PM I dropped off my bag and went on my way. I should note this is a very convenient location. I was only staying a night but an upgrade to a view of the Tower of London should be considered. I had been to the Tower twice and was not planning on a third visit this trip. My destination was the ruins of St Dunstan in the East. However on the way I planned a repeat visit to All Hallows by the Tower. But first I visited the war memorial. You can see All Hallows through the memorial. Very moving.
The All Hallows by the Tower church is adjacent the Tower of London. The oldest church in the City of London, dating to 675 AD. It has survived the Great Fire of London and World War II bombings. The under croft has a lovely museum including Saxon artifacts. Of note to Americans is the parish Register showing the entry for William PENN Penn , the son of an English naval officer Sir William Penn, and Dutchwoman Margaret Jasper, who was widow of a Dutch sea captain and the daughter of a rich merchant from Rotterdam. This William PENN a prominent Quaker who would found the Province of Pennsylvania. He was an advocate for democracy and religious freedom.
From here it is a short couple of blocks to the West to take you to the ruins of St Dunstan in the East (which is to the west of All Hallows by the Tower). The church was largely destroyed in the Second World War and the ruins are now a public garden. St Dunstan’s was originally built about 1100. A new south aisle was added in 1391 and the church underwent repairs in 1631. It was badly damaged in the Great London Fire of 1666. A steeple was added in 1695–1701 to the designs of Sir Christopher Wren who is probably best known for his redesign of St Paul’s Cathedral in London and the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford. St Dunstan’s was severely damaged in the Blitz of 1941. Wren’s tower and steeple survived as well as the north and south walls. St Dunstan’s The parish is now combined with the Benefice of All Hallows by the Tower and occasional open-air services are held in the church. For most this ruin provides a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.
There were two thing that happened here. First I met a delightful couple, Romain & Juliette, from Strasbourg, France. Strasbourg is only 42 miles from Hunawihr where my Paternal grandmother’s HENNINGERs were from oriinginally. Hans Peter HENNINGER died the 15 March 1652 at Hunawihr. Just across the River from Strausbourg in Germany my ancestor Jacob KUTZ 1664-1728 lived in Offenbach. We shared a bench for a time and talked about many things including their work in sports marketing. We shared travel stories and it was a very welcome conversation after 4 days alone.
And we were witness to an angel. The ruins are a favorite photo shoot location, not surprisingly. I asked permission to take these photos. Not everyday you see an angel!
I made my way back via the Tower of London, taking the long way round by the River Thames before arriving at the hotel. Later tonight I will meet my tour group for dinner.
As it turned out Denise was not the only no show. It turned out there were only eleven of us! I met everyone but it took me a day to remember names. We had a lovely Italian dinner at the Cento Alla Torre ( at Tower Suites by Blue Orchid) and the best Minestrone soup ever! I had the pan-fried sword fish served with lemon and herb dressing and for dessert “Panna Cotta alla Lavande e vaniglia,” lavender, dairy free milk, vanilla and macerated strawberries. Yum, yum.
After dinner I asked if anyone was up for a walk. But with no takers I wandered out alone. And I wasn’t sorry. Please note the ceramic poppies in honor of VE day showed up best at night as they spilled out of the tower.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 All Rights Reserved
LONDON Day Three: The British Museum & Trafalgar Square
Posted on June 5, 2025 Leave a Comment
As I have mentioned previously—flexibility is key when traveling. I had tickets for the British Museum for 11:10 AM [First available time slot when I booked ]. But I had arrived there by 9:30 [opening is at 10] from Earl’s Court to Tottenham Station. So I asked, and stood in line and was admitted just after 10. The line was long but moved fast, including bag check. I had a lovely conversation with 2 women that identified themselves as my neighbors. They were Mexican citizens. General consensus about America’s current course made me friends everywhere.
I had wanted to go to the British Museum on my previous 2 visits to London, so this time I was determined to make it. My first stop was the Roseta Stone. It did not inspire me as much as I expected. It is encased in plexiglass and that does not enhance the presentation. The plexi is too close to the object and mars the majesty of the stone. Not to be negative—it just did not show it off in its best light. But I did my best to get a couple of decent photos.
My second, yet most important stop, was room 58 and the Lewis Chessman. Why the Lewis Chessman, you may ask? Good question. I only played chess a little in my youth, so it wasn’t that. I first became aware of the Ivory chessman when reading the historical mystery trilogy by Peter May. The 3 books are “The Black House,” “The Lewis Man,” and “The Chessmen.” This past year an additional novel was added, “The Black Loch.” These all take place in the Outer Hebrides island, of Lewis and Harris.
The Hebrides are the western most islands, off the coast of Scotland. In preparing for a trip to Scotland some years ago I read the trilogy and a book called “The Sea Room” by Adam Nicholson which will be important later in this trip. In any event the Lewis Chessmen and women [queens] were discovered in 1831 on a beach not specified, on or near Uig Bay, Isle of Lewis. The pieces, 94 in all are fashioned from walrus tusks and a few from whale teeth. The British Museum holds 82 pieces, and the National Museum of Scotland has 11 pieces, and one piece is owned privately. I had seen and photographed those in Scotland on my trip there. The 2 sets combined include 8 kings and 8 queens, 16 bishops, 15 knights, 13 warders some of which are beserkers (rooks) and 19 pawns and a buckle [not sure of the others]. They are “believed” to have been carved in the 12th century in Trondheim, Norway due to similar carvings from there. Good evidence of Viking occupation/incursion in Scotland. It is said the Vikings were one of the most important influences in Scotland. In any event the chessmen captured my imagination and I wanted to see more. You can buy replica chess sets, but they are crude by comparison. I will have to do a side by side comparison—but although the British Museum has more pieces, my initial reaction is the National Museum of Scotland had the more finely carved.
I was told by the guard in the Chessmen room that I was very lucky to have them to myself for a good 20 minutes as usually they are difficult to see, let alone photograph. My mother had a set of carved Monkeys from China. I bought a set of my own as a girl in San Francisco’s Chinatown. They were “see no evil—hear no evil—speak no evil.” Mine were carved of ivory and the thing you know if you have held something of ivory, is they are lighter than expected and ivory has a grain and texture, different, but similar to wood. So for me, there is something familiar and tactile even though I am unable to hold them.
During my visit to the National Museum of Scotland I attended a special exhibit of the “Celts: art and Identity” in 2016 [previously at the British Museum]. Seeing the Gundstrup cauldron is not something easily forgotten. You think it is going to be small but it is 27 inches in diameter and 17″ tall. It is made of silver and intricately decorated inside and out. It dare to the La Tene period of 150-1 BC.
I have been enchanted with Celtic and Viking artwork for as long as I can remember. I get lost in the curves, knots, scrolls and fanciful animals, drawn into a world that invites the imagination to go deeper…
I wandered through the impressive collection of Egyptian artifacts which was massive but the presentation was not so great. I also made a point of going to the Museum’s room on money which told the story of money but the collection itself was quite lean. I was hoping to see lots of Anglo Saxon and Celtic coins, and was quite disappointed that there were only a couple. In the Musee of Beaux Arts is Lyon had a lovely collection.
I found the outside architecture of the British Museum impressive but sterile, much as I found some of the exhibits. The best museums fit the collection to the space in pleasing ways. The Sutton Hoo and British rooms doing much better than the Egyptian or Roman collections, from my perspective. I am not a museum curator, but I know what I like and what engages me. The British Museum has grand architecture in and out, and masses of people but I would visit the Victoria & Albert Museum any day, over the British Museum. It by contrast is warm, inviting and engaging. It reminds me of the huge warehouse “Toys R’ Us” [now defunct] versus your corner toy shop. The one has everything to the point of overwhelming and the other is intimate with someone who guides you to just what you are looking for. This drove home a salient truth for me. The organization of space, whether small or lofty and the presentation of objects inside that space matters to me, a lot more than I realized.
I found a little sanctuary within the British Museum. I met a man there who said he comes to this spot often. I took these photos visited the gift shop and went on my way. I hope I have not dissuaded you from going. I am glad I did, but it really wasn’t so much “my cuppa tea.”
The walk from the British Museum, along Charring Road, takes you through the heart of the Theatre District. Along with the Billboards in the Underground, every conceivable theatre production is here. A few of the sights.
Grabbed one of my meal deals and found a seat outside the National Portrait Gallery. I sat for a leisurely lunch while watching the world go by. I noted the Theatre across the Street and it was familiar. I texted Dale, and asked isn’t this the Garrick where we saw “Noises Off”? Hard to believe in a blink of an eye I could text Dale and get a response, “Yes.” I finished my lunch and entered the National Portrait Gallery. Unlike the British Museum, The Victoria & Albert, The National Gallery and the National Gallery are all FREE, although donations are welcome. I am particularly a fan of the Tudor Rooms with their life size portraits, rich in colors and detail. The lighting is dark to protect the paintings and it adds to the intimacy. I spent some time here.
Then a short walk to the elevator that takes you to the crypt under St Martin in the Fields Church. I didn’t end up going inside the church this visit. I had just missed entry into the mid day concert. On a previous visit I had heard a rehearsal for a chamber concert which included Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons.” The glass elevator is missed by most tourists. My last visit I stood in the crypt in a crowd of wall to wall people watching the first of several BREXIT votes. This one happened to be favorable to the crowd who were against BREXIT. The crypt has vaulted brick ceilings, a cafeteria, a brass rubbing station and a gift shop. This time the gift shop had shrunk (post Covid-19) and the brass rubbing station had moved into it. The gift shop still had a lively collection of books, cards, linens and housewares. I spent much longer than you might think trying not to buy a mug which would be too bulky and heavy to carry for the rest of the trip. In the end, against all reason I bought it and a box of Cartwright & Butler Lemon & Sultana Biscuits [shortbread type cookies with lemon & raisins] for friends back home. When I got back home it matched the card I received from my daughter.
I came back up into the light of day and wandered around Trafalgar square and even spent some time bench sitting and people watching. It is a lively venue for both, especially on a sunny day. Leaving Trafalgar it’s a short walk to Charring Cross Station, which was closed. Argh! For all the wonders of the Underground, station closures, line closures and other misadventures it was often stressful. People are generally helpful, but occasionally give bad advice. I got on the right train once, going the wrong direction and was thwarted several times in having to do work arounds when service was disrupted. In spite of that it’s hard not to love the convenience. I walked to Embankment Station and made my way back to Earl’s Court. Even though not as centrally located I was pleased with my choice of a home base. My last night here before moving on to Tower Hill.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON, Day Two, Part Three: A Day to Remember
Posted on June 4, 2025 Leave a Comment
This is a short one. I can’t forget to show you the beautiful flowers from the Flower Mart stand on High Street in Earl’s Court from today. Have I mentioned I love flowers and Gardens? <winks> I didn’t buy any, but I sure did admire them.
In my last post I had arrived back at my hotel after the Victory in Europe celebrations. I thought my day was done. I turned on the TV to the BBC while I prepared to eat my dinner.
The first words I heard were, “We have white smoke.”
As world leaders go, I admired Pope Francis for being a champion for the poor and an outspoken advocate for human rights. He died the day after Easter, Monday, April 21, 2025. The conclave to elect a new pope began yesterday, May 7th, in Rome. Here it was the next day, and I turned on the tele to find out we had a new pope.
Ordinarily, I would not have had the television on during the day back home and by the time I heard, it would have been old news. So I sat listening to the analysis and speculation on who it might be, in real time. I took photos of the TV in my room. I was watching history—after seeing such ancient history earlier this day.
The whole thing took me by surprise and I wept when Cardinal Robert Prevost, now Pope Leo XIV was announced. I am not sure why, but it probably was part relief that the church had not selected a conservative, that he was the first American born pope and that he would provide a sharp contrast with the current corruption in Washington. Maybe it was a combination of visiting the ancient Catholic Temple Church which had been consecrated on the 10th of February 1185, more than 840 years ago. Having received a blessing and prayer for PEACE from the priest at the Temple Church.
Reflecting on the Magna Carta that was signed at the Temple, which set out the rights of the people, independent from their sovereign. My conversation with the barrister on the appeals court about the law, politics and who would succeed Pope Francis and the overall sense of celebration of the 80th anniversary of VE day May 8th, 2025 in London—and I so far away from my home and reflecting on those coming back from WWII and those that were never to return. It pulled at all sorts of threads of the day together and left me dumbfounded.
In addition we had recently watched the 2024 movie “The Conclave.” It doesn’t matter what your religion or lack thereof—as a voice for reason and caring, a Pope can make a difference. A day I will not soon forget. Yes, Virginia, there are a few miracles still out there…happy to have been witness to a few.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON, DAY Two, Part Two: VE 80th Celebration
Posted on June 3, 2025 Leave a Comment
As mentioned in my last post I made a spur of the moment decision to head over to Westminster Cathedral where private ceremonies were to be held with King Charles, dignitaries and veterans in celebration of the 80th anniversary of VE [Victory in Europe, during WWII] at Noon. I had no expectations. It was a way to hit this area and free up more time on Friday. Arriving at the Westminster Underground Station I headed for Westminster Bridge because it was one of those picture perfect days. Remember I had started my day with a view of the London Eye [Ferris Wheel] far to the east up the Thames, looking West. And here I am in the opposite position looking East. Like so many cities built near a major River, London is no exception—on a gray day nothing can look more dismal or depressing —but on a bright sunny day punctuated by soft cumulus clouds, it’s beautiful.
Now I know the God’s have a sense of humor but come on. The advertisement on the bus is for the Tom Cruise movie “Mission Impossible: The Final Reckoning.” Now I couldn’t quite be sure whether this was an oblique reference to the current state of the United States or the fact that at this angle the Elizabeth Tower was doing its best impression of the leaning Tower of Pisa. On my two previous visits to London with my cousin Dale, the tower had been wrapped in cloth coverings and scaffolding. The renovation took 5 years! Here at last I get to see it and it’s going to fall over?
Not to worry the bus passed and The Elizabeth Tower along with the bell inside which is called Big Ben were righted. Whew! Alls right with the world. BTW Dale this one is for you!
Were there crowds yes, but nothing like during BREXIT. There was a large area all around Westminster Cathedral that was cordoned off with Police every where. I arrived just before one when the ceremony started at noon. When the ceremony ended the bells chimed 80 times, which was lovely to hear.
I wandered up Parliament Street to the Cenotaph which is a War Memorial unveiled in 1920 and is the site of the annual National Service of Remembrance. As you can see it was draped in the Union Jack. Then I watched as several dignitaries passed by after exiting the ceremonies at Westminster. There was a women and her husband that caught my eye and I captured this scene. Note in the background is King Charles Street Arch and the Cabinet War Rooms. I don’t know whether she or her husband were vets but she certainly enjoyed taking her photo with this British officer. And she was just too cute—red coat, blue dress and those sling back red Mary Janes with white socks. Her husband had a photo on the back of his coat which I think was of him as a boy during the original VE day. It made the day special. I have often heard my friend Jean (who lives in England) recounting the days during the War.
Going forward in my trip I was to see VE reminders everywhere.
I did not stay long making my way back to 20 Nevern Square. These photos are also for Dale, a Dr Who fan. This is outside the main entrance to the Earl’s Court Underground station. And another Dale pic of our friend Willie.
My walk to the hotel. Can you smell the jasmine? And isn’t that little house so lovely? I was only there a total of 3 nights but I found the walk very enjoyable each day on my comings and goings.
I picked up a meal at Marks & Spence and arrived back at a reasonable hour. In my next post you’ll hear how this day all came together.
Kelly Wheaton © 2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON Day Two, Part One: Temple
Posted on June 1, 2025 Leave a Comment
Temple: from the Latin templum meaning an ‘open or consecrated space’.
I had an itinerary and a plan, but that was based on traveling with someone who had not been to London before. Upon getting back last night and finding my feet and back complaining more loudly than expected I decided to revamp my plans and downsize my expectations. This was my view of the patio while eating breakfast.
I did not “have to” go or be anywhere. I reduced my goal to traveling to the Temple District. The Temple District is the main legal area in London and home to the Royal Courts of Justice, London’s 4 Inns of the Court, with their adjacent gardens and the Temple Church, built in 1185 by the military order of the Knights Templar. I like to travel with a plan, but not necessarily stick to it, leaving openings for serendipity.
After breakfast I made my way to the Earl’s Court Underground Station and looked to catch the District Line to Temple Station. On exiting Temple Station I happened upon a Women’s art installation beside the River Thames with a fanciful pumpkin carriage with Chain, and a cupcake with the London Eye in the distance.
I had visited the remains of the White Friars Monastery on Carmelite Street [see map below] on a previous visit to London. The Temple district is loosely bounded by the River Thames to the south, Surrey Street to the west, the Strand and Fleet Street to the north, and Carmelite Street and Whitefriars to the east.
I became more interested in the Temple area when reading Nancy Maude Peters, “Was Shakespeare a Hydden Man? An Elizabethean Jigsaw Puzzle” This book builds a case for the author of Shakespeare’s works being Ralph SHELDON rather than William SHAKESPEARE. The same Ralph who was responsible for the SHELDON tapestries I saw at the Albert & Victoria Museum yesterday. Her book is available on Amazon and is well researched, albeit controversial. Interestingly, Ralph SHELDON is not among the 88 listed on Wikipedia’s Shakespeare Authorship Candidates list and she builds a better case than most of them. My interest in Ralph has to do with my working theory that my grandmother SHELDON’s line is connected to the SHELDON’s of Warwickshire of which Ralph SHELDON was a prominent member. Ralph SHELDON was admitted to the Middle Temple to study law 12th of November 1556 and had chambers there through May of 1560. About this same time Ralph’s sister Katherine SHELDON married Edmund PLOWDEN. Edmund was Treasurer of the Middle Temple and oversaw its design and construction in the 1560’s. The Middle Temple hosted the first recorded performance of Shakespeare’s play “Twelfth Night” in the hall on 2 February 1602. It is also of note that William Shakespeare set the scene for “Henry VI.” Pt. I. Act 2, sc. iv. at the beginning addressing the Wars of the Roses in the Temple Garden:
Warwick: “And here I prophesy: this brawl today,
Grown to this faction in the Temple garden,
Shall send, between the Red Rose and the White,
A thousand souls to death and deadly night.” SHAKESPEARE
Much of the Middle Temple was destroyed in a fire in January 1679, which caused more damage to the Inn, than the Great Fire of London in 1666. Peters goes into great detail about Edmund’s published law tracts and their influence on a number of Shakespeare’s plays. So there were several reasons for spending my first full day in London visiting the Temple District. Edmund PLOWDEN is interred at the Temple Church [below is his memorial and effigy]. I had not remembered this, but when I read his name I knew it was familiar so I took a couple of photos, even though I had forgotten his connection. But I jump ahead of myself.
As I was at the Temple church more than a hour before it opened, I made my way up from the Thames to the Royal Courts of Justice on the Strand. This building dates to the 1870s and were opened by Queen Victoria in 1882. A statue honors her nearby. The Royal Courts of Justice, commonly called the Law Courts, house the High Court and Court of Appeal for England and Wales.
Then I wandered back to the Temple Church and still had about an hour so I wandered around the Temple buildings visiting their gardens as I went. The courtyard outside of the Temple Church is that of the Inner Temple and has this lovely statue to the Knights Templar. Someone had laid a single foxglove stalk at its base and I loved the way it hugged the statue. To whomever left it there thank you! It made me smile.
The first garden I discovered was that of Hare Court. This garden was envisioned by the Inner Temple’s Head Gardener, Andrea Brusendorf. Her vision was quite successful. I spent some time exploring this garden and enjoying the benches here and viewing the sculpture ‘Justice’ by Tanya Russell. Viewed from different angles giving very different impressions.
My next garden was that of Pump Court which is more of a courtyard than a garden. In each court building is a list of occupants. Note the Pump in the foreground.
ELM COURT GARDEN
My Next Garden was Elm Court Garden. It was this garden that stole my heart. This was originally part of Fig Tree Court which is memorialized here. [As with all my photos click on them to see the whole photo.] As the plaque denotes it was destroyed in the great fire of 1666 and then rebuilt in 1679 and then destroyed in 1940. It is now part of Elm court. The official listing for the buttery Listed entry #100206 In this case the term come from the French but and was not a place to store butter but rather a place of storage in general.
“The Inner Temple Hall Buttery [is] located 53m south of Temple Church.
It is the under croft and service end of a 14th century hall. Domestic under crofts of the medieval period could comprise three or more vaulted bays depending upon the wealth of the owner. They were constructed of stone, fireproof and used for the storage of provisions or items of special value. Although under crofts are sometimes referred to as cellars, they were not necessarily built entirely below ground level. Despite alterations and additions, Inner Temple Hall Buttery survives well. It is a rare example of a surviving 14th century secular building in Greater London. The building retains some significant 14th and 15th century architectural features and will contain archaeological information relating to the use and history of the site.”
The Buttery forms the (slightly north) eastern boundary of Elm Court. The brick buildings as the stand today are from the rebuilding after WWII except for this wall of the Buttery. To the West is the Lamb Building and to the North and south Elm Court Buildings. This charming space that I fell in love with was originally part of the Middle Temple!!! The same temple where Ralph SHELDON and Edmund PLOWDEN belonged.
Since Gardening is a passion I want you to read about this garden designer Master Kate Jenrick the Middle Temple’s Master Gardener. “For planting inspiration, Kate looks to the dynamic duo of Christopher Lloyd and Beth Chatto,” both favorites of mine. But let me tell you what I noticed in this garden. There is an incredible attention to detail and the planting of color echoes. Color echoes are plants that share some of the same colors. Look at the photos above do you see how the color of the benches is echoed in the climbing rose and in the brick below. Look closely at the photos below and you will see colors repeated. I think this might be the David Austin Rose “Crown Princess Margareta.”
I love the inscription on the bench which reads “IN MEMORY OF TAHERA LADAK 1962 – 2014. SHE WAS A BRAVE ADVOCATE FOR FAMILIES FACING INJUSTICE.” And the Armillary sphere reads:
◆ Make Time Save Time ◆ While Time Lasts ◆ Time is No Time
◆ When Time Has Past ◆
I came back to this garden several times. Such was its impact on me.
MIDDLE TEMPLE GARDENS
However, Master Kate Jenrick is also in charge of the garden that nearly took my breath away. I was coming down the steps onto the Garden court of the Middle Temple Garden and stopped in my tracks. Wisteria dripping off the balustrades and banksea roses climbing the brick walls of Middle Court. A man, the only other soul there saw my admiration and said, “Stunning isn’t it?”
That was the start of a remarkable twenty minute conversation that ranged from gardens to American politics to who would be the next Pope. He said he worked with people not two blocks away who have never seen these gardens. It turned out he was a barrister with the Court of Appeals [photos earlier in this post]. And he was a gay, Catholic who had dreamt the night before about our American President, with whom he admitted he was mildly obsessed. [Who isn’t concerned for democracy in the world?] I did not get his name but a kindred spirit he was and I thank hi for taking the time to engage with me. I will forever remember him.
A few more photos of the Middle Temple and gardens. This arch of the Middle Temple
INNER TEMPLE GARDEN
I had planned to come back for the opening of the Inner Temple Garden but it wasn’t until 12:30 PM and I felt my garden fix was satiated. I did take this one of the Inner Temple from outside, as well as the familiar Dragon along the Thames.
Now it was time to make it back to Temple church and of course another walk through of Elm Court.
TEMPLE CHURCH
By the time I made it back to the Temple Church it was open and there were maybe a dozen people exploring it. Please google the church to find out more. This particular photo I took by laying on my back in the middle of the rotunda and shooting straight up [or the best that I could].
Some good information from the panels within the church.
There were several Americans here as I was visiting and I suspect it is a draw, particularly now as our United States Bill of Rights are under attack. Our Bill of rights takes some of its ideas from the Magna Carta which came to fruition in 1215 under the Reign of King John. A copy of his effigy is on loan here from the Victoria & Albert Museum. [Original is in Worcester Cathedral].
This church remains a Catholic church and its chancel dome was fashioned in 1162 as a replica of that in Jerusalem of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The priest gave us a blessing of PEACE while were there.
Outside the Temple church.
I had my lunch on the porch of Temple church before making my way back up to the Strand. Where I just happened upon a Twinging store and was able to fulfill a request from my friend, Denise’s daughter. Although I had thought we could get the same Earl Grey in the United States I was informed that this particular blend of Earl Grey was only found in London.
LINCOLN’s COURT GARDENS
Next I made my way to Lincoln’s Court on my way to the Chancery Lane Underground Station.
And then a couple of things happened. I knew that today, May 8th, was the 80th Anniversary of VE Day or Victory in Europe, commemorating the end of WWII for Europe. Celebrations were everywhere. These presented themselves. And note the building called “The Last Judgement.” So in an impulsive decision I decided to head over to Westminster. I had been to Trafalgar Square during the BREXIT Vote….how busy could it be?
In my next post I will reflect on the Celebrations for VE Day. It was a bit ironic to know that my father, uncle and grandfather were at this time 80 years ago stationed in the Pacific Theatre. My father and grandfather on Tinian Island, where the Enola Gay and Bockscar would leave from to drop their deadly cargo. My father would be among the first troops to occupy Nagasakai in September 1945. So the War in Europe ended in May, but for my family it did not end for another 6 months.
Kelly Wheaton © 2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON Day One: Part 2 The Fukishima Garden
Posted on May 31, 2025 1 Comment
Well its been some three plus weeks since I started my travelogue and I am back to putting it down on paper. As I finished up at The Victoria and Albert Museum and traveled via the Kensington Park Flower Walk and passing the modest (compared to her husband) memorial to Queen Victoria I skirted the edge of Kensington Palace. Where I took a photo through the fence. And admired the gate.
Walking through some very posh neighborhoods to Holland Park, I stopped at a lovely upscale market, Bayley & Sage, where I picked up a fancy salad for an evening picnic at the so called Kyoto Garden, correctly called the Fukishima Garden. I had originally scheduled the garden on arrival in London, but then I read how it is a very busy destination, especially for proposals and engagement photos, so I put this at the end of my day instead. Unlike reasonable people who use their phone for walking directions I had several google maps I had printed out in advance, perhaps out of a fear of technology leaving me high and dry, if it failed… And to be honest I am a lover of maps, aka a cartophile. There’s something about studying a map that imprints the image and helps my sense of direction. Occasionally when my internal compass goes awry, its like losing my equilibrium. I have to keep spinning the map in my head until it is aligned with reality. As if a map is as real, as what it is supposed to represent. Some of you will know what I mean.
Why this garden? It isn’t as if I hadn’t seen Japanese Gardens before, but something made me want to see this one. Maybe it was because it seemed out of place.Growing up, I was very familiar with the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park and I have my own pseudo Japanese style garden in my front garden. Perhaps a beacon of serenity in an otherwise bustling city? Perhaps the use of Azaleas, Rhododendrons, water and stone, all things I love. On my way I passed this sweet dog waiting oh so patiently amidst the flowers. It reminded me of my son’s dog Booker…long ago…in a galaxy far away…when you travel there are always touch stones.
I had not made it to all that I had planned today, but I had made it to the Japanese garden. My feet and back hurt but I was in London and felt surprisingly at home in spite of exploring areas I had not been to before. I had walked and traveled a long way in a relatively short time. I was alone in a large city, which I had done before but this time it hadn’t been planned that way.
The plaque at the entrance to the garden. I was surprised that the garden was so young, less than 8 years old. My own home garden is 35! Motomiya is a city of about 30,000, about 10 miles south of Fukishima in Japan. Following the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, in collaboration with Motomiya City, built the Fukushima Garden in Holland Park, London, as a symbol of unity and solidarity. Surprisingly the Japanese sister city to San Francisco, Osaka severed ties after 60 years in 2018 after a private group of citizens erected a statue in San Francisco memorializing the “Comfort Women” who were forced to work in Brothels from the early 1930s until Japan’s defeat in 1945. My home town does not have a sister city in Japan, but I do like these connections, between countries especially when they don’t become politicized.
I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
The last photo amused me as while the woman is stooping to feed and photograph the squirrels, she is unknowingly overseen by a crow, perched on a post right behind her, ready to swoop in. Parks are interesting places where people and nature interact, often in amusing ways.
I walked back to my home base for the next 3 nights at 20 Nevern Square in Earl’s Court. A neighborhood of Georgian Homes only a short walk from the Earl’s Court Tube station. I was happy with this as a quiet location to return to each night.
And thus ends the first day in London.
Previous posts on this trip:
- Arrival In London
- Traveling for Genealogy : Expectation vs Reality
Kelly Wheaton © 2025 – All Rights Reserved
TRAVELING FOR GENEALOGY: Expectation vs Reality
Posted on May 30, 2025 3 Comments
Back in December I wrote Traveling for Genealogy: Virtual and In person in which I note all the things I have experienced in planning for a genealogy related trip. Because the trip I was taking in May was NOT ostensibly for genealogy and I was not to have any control over dates, times etc, I went with a “whatever happens, happens attitude.” I did not want to encourage expectations which were not possible to full-fill. I did not reach out in advance to places I might have occasion to visit, simply because I wasn’t even sure of I would have the opportunity to visit them.
As I have recounted this trip was partly to allow my friend Denise to visit Canterbury where her direct ancestor Robert CUSHMAN lived and was instrumental in organizing the sailing of the Mayflower. As luck had it Denise was not able to go, but I was able to wander around Canterbury the evening we arrived and the next morning and find all of the places I had mapped out in advance related to Robert CUSHMAN.
So in this case I was quite successful. [I will take up the CUSHMAN story in another Blog post.]
The other possible opportunities were to happen upon leaving Leed’s Castle on our way south to Tenterden. I had asked our tour guide, Ben SIMS and driver, Tony GILBERT, if it might be possible to exit Leeds Castle via Chegworth Road that led to Ulcombe Road, then turns into Tilden Road, rather than taking the B2163. The advantage of going with a tour company like Blue Roads /Back Roads Touring is that it is at their discretion to accommodate such requests. They checked it out via Google Maps and agreed. I had shown them a couple of screen shots of what I was looking for as well as my blog post about the TILDENs.
Now this was a true English country lane, replete with hedgerows and our ride was an 18 passenger Mercedes Coach. However, with an experienced driver it was easily managed. Giving true meaning to back roads touring as we did go off the beaten track. Here’s a view from the coach. Thank you Ben and Tony and my tour group for allowing me this opportunity.
It maybe added an extra 10-15 minutes to our journey but this was the reward. Seeing the Old half timber frame 15th- 16th century TILDEN Houses first hand.
We made our way to the town of Tenterden and the spire of St Mildred’s Church could be seen from quite a distance, as seen in this old postcard looking north from Six Fields Lane.
The 15th century tower was built from funds from the wealthy citizens (wool merchants?) of Tenterden and is constructed of local Bethersden marble. It stands at 200 feet above sea level and is itself 125 feet high. The coast of France can be seen from the top of the tower on a clear day. The tower is visible to ships in the Channel and previously had a beacon at its top. Local tradition has it that it was lit during the arrival of the Spanish Armada and perhaps to guide ships to Tenterden when it was one of the “limbs” (additions) of the original Cinque Ports. The Cinque Ports, prounouced “sink” were a confederation of originally five ports, during the reign of Edward the Confessor (1042–1066). These ports were granted the local profits and certain autonomous privileges in exchange for providing ships and protection. They are mentioned in the Magna Carta of 1297. [More on the Magna Carta when I post about my visit to Temple Church in London.]
We proceeded into town of Tenterden and parked in the car park on Station Road and St Mildred’s was a short walk away. Here are my first close-up views of St Mildred.
Upon reaching the front door I was met with this, “St. Mildred’s Church is temporarily closed. This is because work is taking place which will improve the building for both the church and the community of Tenterden…” I laughed out loud. This was not the first time this had happened to me when visiting an old church in England.
So I wandered around the building to see if there was another opening. And of course there was, and this one had some young workmen there and I asked permission to have a look see, since I had come all the way from America and they kindly obliged. Having done the other part of my research, I knew this church had a unique 15th century barrel vaulted ceiling with hand carved bosses. Even though, said ceiling it is not even mentioned in the write-up about it in England’s Thousand Best Churches. Tenterden church is dedicated to St Mildred and this dedication is an uncommon one in england with only a handful of ST Mildred chrches. St Mildred was a very pious and revered lady who became Abbess of the Abbey at Minster on the island of Thanet, Kent. She died the 13th of July 734 and was originally buried in her beloved abbey on Thanet. Her relics were later transferred to a shrine at St Augustine’s Abbey at Canterbury, which was one of the most important monasteries in medieval England. St Augustine’s was plundered under Henry VIII’s “Suppression of the Monasteries.” More can be read about St Mildred here. What happened to her remains I have not ascertained. St Mildred was the great-great-granddaughter of the King of Kent, Ethelbert. The one thing you find is historical connections everywhere in England. And of course a slightly more personal connection was my grandmother was named Helen “Mildred” an uncommon name on my mother’s side or anywhere in my tree. There is no record of why she was given the middle name Mildred. My TILDEN connection is on my father’s side through Judith TILDEN who married William PABODIE the 27th of June 1693 at Little Compton, Newport, Rhode Island. Judith’s mother in Law was Elizabeth ALDEN born 31st of MAY 1624 at Plymouth, Massachusetts. She was the daughter of Mayflower voyagers: John ALDEN and Priscilla MULLINS.
Looking at the outside doors of the tower, into the Nave and up at the barrel vaulted ceiling. I looked for the baptismal font but could not find it ( the workman did not know where it was either although I looked under canvases and tarps.) However, as I gazed up at the ceiling I thought of my ancestors Stephen TILDEN baptized here in 1629, my 9th great grandfather back to his grandfather Thomas born in 1551 and married here in 1576 to Alice BIGGE. The ceiling reminded me of a ships hull or the woodworking on an ornate chest and I speculated that some of the ship builders who were active just south of Tenterden at the hamlet of Small Hythe had been responsible for its construction. Small Hythe stood on a branch of the Rother estuary and was a busy shipbuilding port in the 15th century. The Rother estuary led out to Rye Harbor. Small Hythe silted up and ceased as a shipbuilding place.
Above are assorted views inside. Outside I saw one old monument to a BIGGE (Stephan TILDEN married Alice BIGGE), but did not have time to explore at length. English Daisies appearing through cracks at front of St Mildred’s. The old tombs of a BIGGE, the sundial above the porch, long view of St Mildreds, a mermaid rose which was a surprise [The Mermaid Rose is a hybrid climber bred in 1906 by English horticulturist William Paul and son. Parentage is Rosa bracteata x unnamed tea. William Paul (1822–1905) was an English horticulturalist and writer, known for his book “The Rose Garden.” Not to mention we were to spend the night at the Mermaid Inn at Rye] and a final view of the tower.
Then a quick dash down the lane to the Tenterden Town Hall where I hoped to pop in for a look at the plaque listing the mayors of Tenterden which included my immigrant , Stephen TILDEN. But in what I considered an absurd sense of humor of the gods this is what I found. The Town Hall was also undergoing renovation ” We make Plans, god laughs”. [It took me 3rd trips to London to see the Elizabeth Tower where it was not shrouded in scaffolding and cloth. Known to most as Big Ben—The bell inside the tower, known as the Great Bell, is the one that is actually named “Big Ben”.]
A broader view of the Town Hall. No entrance at all.
Across the street was the Lemon Tree Pub. Housed in the 14th century “Wealden Hall House” building, reportedly visited by King Henry VIII. So giving me an idea of what things might have looked like back at the time the TILDENs lived here. Obviously the Town Hall has been updated and modernized over time.
And finally on the way back to the car park I threw a coin in the Tenterden Wishing Well which benefits the Savannah Trust. It was previously the The Brewery Well on Coombe Lane dug in 1893 and originally powered by a wind pump now re-envisioned as a wishing well. My wish is that if I make it back to Tenterden the renovations are complete. Anyone happening upon this who may have photos of the plaque or the baptismal font willing to share drop me a line.
Thus the adventures of traveling for genealogy. Sometimes what you don’t have access to—becomes as much the story, as what you do. And cast your eyes about—no telling what you might find. Finding a familiar rose was certainly a surprise. And the ceiling was still as visible as ever.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved
LONDON Day One: Arrival
Posted on May 10, 2025 5 Comments
Wednesday May 7th
Deplaning at Heathrow was not at all as expected. The reason for the long delay became evident when finally reaching the door. There was no mechanized causeway. What greeted me was two flights of stairs with a landing at half point. Now ordinarily this would not seem that daunting however carrying my 20 pound bag while clutching the handrail was not welcome. The extra weight on my 70 year old knees caused them to groan in disapproval. I was shocked that this was not announced before exiting and there were no offers by crew to help. For once I wanted to look older and more unfit. I have deplaned via stairs before, but not one so far off the ground. A new experience indeed. Nod to the Outlander scene where Claire and Frank are deplanning in New York City. I know that my photo makes the steps look flat but I assure you this was steeper than it looks.
Well that was just the start of my misadventures. “Chin up buttercup!”
Once on the tarmac we were shuttled into buses which took us through the bowels of Heathrow airport including a section signed “Extremely Dangerous Traffic Area.” Having survived that serapentine travel and made it quickly through the automated customs (all done biometricly without human contact) and then successfully navigating to the correct area to catch the train to London. Stopped off to top of my Oyster Card only to be told the green District Line was experiencing “Extreme Delays.” So back up to where I came from to take the Piccadly line going East and then transfer backtracking going west to make it to my destination at Earl’s Court.
Two hours later than expected I arrived at my final destination for the next 3 nights. 20 Nevern Place. The staff remade the twins into a queen and let me check in early. Yay!
Off on foot to the Victoria & Albert Museum. By the time I got to The Natural History Museum I could feel the day’s travel hitting me. Rather than pop in I just strode right by. However I did love the title of this exhibit.
And also spotted this delightful pair of old phone booths.
On to the Victoria & Albert where I wanted to view more of the SHELDON tapestries having seen the largest intact one in Warwick and an exhibit of others at the Oxford Bodliean Library.
The museum is a gem of life and joy set in an inspiring architecture. As I had planned to eat in the Cafe there and did so I marvelked at its beauty in a city of beautiful things. Not to be missed.
And the courtyard is just as lovely. Caught two youngsters playing in the water which delighted me.
Finally Albert Hall.
I thought of the BBC series Victoria and Albert. It may be a romanticized view but it was a golden age in England. Intricate and opulent but not heavy or morose. Interesting juxtaposition of monuments. The first Victoria’s Tribute to her husband and the second a memorial after her death.
As often happens as one wanders about there are delightful moments like these two faithful servants exhibiting patience. I used to say “the English love their gardens, their tea their Queen and their dogs, not necessarily in that order.”
Rather than walk to the Diana monument I happened upon “The Flower Walk” which turned out to be magical. Greeted by very friendly squirrels and a robin greeter posed perfectly for photos in front of a matching bed of wallflowers. Three green parrots squalked loudly. Drawing my eyes overhead, as they flew off. They reminded me of San Francisco’s parrots of Telegraph Hill. Guessing they were once domestic gone wild and looking them up they are known as Ring-necked parakeets native to Africa.
The trees and flower display were stunning in this quarter of a mile walk.
The day was not yet done. But that will wait for a new post as I fall farther and farther behind. Perhaps it was a good thing that I was delayed in arriving as I jammed so much into this first day. As you will note, this diary is both in words and photos.
More to come.
Kelly Wheaton © 2025 – All Rights Reserved.
Recording one’s own History: Off to London
Posted on May 9, 2025 Leave a Comment
This is a travel diary meant to record my trip. I have an old letter from my great aunt about her travels to Europe, along with the diary of my great grandmother so apologies to those who are looking strictly for genealogy.
Tuesday May 6th, 2025
Woke at 3 AM PST. That was appropriate as I had been going to bed early and waking early to prepare for my trip to England. Trying to trick my body into jumping ahead 8 hours. Fairly succesful at this as the jet lag exhaustion was front ended, by the time I landed about 10:30 AM London time I felt quite refreshed.
This was supposed to be my travel mate’s first trip to England. I lost track of how many times I have been. When my son was getting his doctorate at University of Southampton I began coming and had kept it up after his return to the states 5 years later. That was twenty years ago when my first trip was to meet my first grandchild.
As an avid gardener, genealogist and history buff England has many magnets pulling me towards her. I do feel quite at home here, for a foreigner. And over the twenty years I have learned the English language from the English. “Well done. Right you are, ” said the British reservationist on my first trip.
I have had some trepidation upon setting out solo, as my travel companion and friend from kindergarten, who was to travel with me took ill. I have traveled alone before, but always meeting up with some family or friends for at least part of the journey. So part of the trip was familiar, but I was also to have the experience of traveling alone as a 70 year old woman.
As usual I had begun my planning nearly a year ahead and researching minute details of places to go and things to see. I never do EVERYTHING on my Itinerary but instead it gives me a buffet of things to choose from.
Last minute brisk walk and watering of my garden and was ready ahead of schedule. Driving to the airport is 1-2 hours plus 3 hoyrs early for International flight. Target was 11 AM. I was ready by 10 so off we went. Over the years I travel with just a carry-on and a pursue. (Still manage to pack more than I need!)
Arrived at the airport about 4 hours ahead of schedule only to tack on another 20 minutes for a flight delay.
Flew through security and arrived at gate just after the previous departure. So had the area largely to myself. Plenty of available USB ports to keep my phone juiced. The lounge was one of those downstairs and this was the art to which I faced.
Boarding was quick and well organized with Virgin using two doors to admit passengers (Priority and normal). Didn’t need to check ticket or passport as they check you in via biometrics. The UK began with that many years ago. The plane was fairly full in First Class and Business Class. We had paid $37 extra for priority seats: one window and one aisle. So as it worked out I had the whole row to sleep on!
Awoke about 7:30 AM local time and had an opportunity to watch a movie, “Across the River and Into the Trees” which seemed apropriate.
I had expected an overcast day so was delighted with some sunshine. To my delight I caught a glimpse of Windsor Castle lit by the morning sun as we were coming into Heathrow Airport.
To be continued…
Kelly Wheaton copyright All Rights Reserved
Wheaton Wood 