LONDON Day Three: The British Museum & Trafalgar Square

As I have mentioned previously—flexibility is key when traveling. I had tickets for the British Museum for 11:10 AM [First available time slot when I booked ]. But I had arrived there by 9:30 [opening is at 10] from Earl’s Court to Tottenham Station. So I asked, and stood in line and was admitted just after 10. The line was long but moved fast, including bag check. I had a lovely conversation with 2 women that identified themselves as my neighbors. They were Mexican citizens. General consensus about America’s current course made me friends everywhere.

I had wanted to go to the British Museum on my previous 2 visits to London, so this time I was determined to make it. My first stop was the Roseta Stone. It did not inspire me as much as I expected. It is encased in plexiglass and that does not enhance the presentation. The plexi is too close to the object and mars the majesty of the stone. Not to be negative—it just did not show it off in its best light. But I did my best to get a couple of decent photos.

My second, yet most important stop, was room 58 and the Lewis Chessman. Why the Lewis Chessman, you may ask? Good question. I only played chess a little in my youth, so it wasn’t that. I first became aware of the Ivory chessman when reading the historical mystery trilogy by Peter May. The 3 books are “The Black House,” “The Lewis Man,” and “The Chessmen.” This past year an additional novel was added, “The Black Loch.” These all take place in the Outer Hebrides island, of Lewis and Harris.

The Hebrides are the western most islands, off the coast of Scotland. In preparing for a trip to Scotland some years ago I read the trilogy and a book called “The Sea Room” by Adam Nicholson which will be important later in this trip. In any event the Lewis Chessmen and women [queens] were discovered in 1831 on a beach not specified, on or near Uig Bay, Isle of Lewis. The pieces, 94 in all are fashioned from walrus tusks and a few from whale teeth. The British Museum holds 82 pieces, and the National Museum of Scotland has 11 pieces, and one piece is owned privately. I had seen and photographed those in Scotland on my trip there. The 2 sets combined include 8 kings and 8 queens, 16 bishops, 15 knights, 13 warders some of which are beserkers (rooks) and 19 pawns and a buckle [not sure of the others]. They are “believed” to have been carved in the 12th century in Trondheim, Norway due to similar carvings from there. Good evidence of Viking occupation/incursion in Scotland. It is said the Vikings were one of the most important influences in Scotland. In any event the chessmen captured my imagination and I wanted to see more. You can buy replica chess sets, but they are crude by comparison. I will have to do a side by side comparison—but although the British Museum has more pieces, my initial reaction is the National Museum of Scotland had the more finely carved.

I was told by the guard in the Chessmen room that I was very lucky to have them to myself for a good 20 minutes as usually they are difficult to see, let alone photograph. My mother had a set of carved Monkeys from China. I bought a set of my own as a girl in San Francisco’s Chinatown. They were “see no evil—hear no evil—speak no evil.” Mine were carved of ivory and the thing you know if you have held something of ivory, is they are lighter than expected and ivory has a grain and texture, different, but similar to wood. So for me, there is something familiar and tactile even though I am unable to hold them.

During my visit to the National Museum of Scotland I attended a special exhibit of the “Celts: art and Identity” in 2016 [previously at the British Museum]. Seeing the Gundstrup cauldron is not something easily forgotten.  You think it is going to be small but it is 27 inches in diameter and 17″ tall. It is made of silver and intricately decorated inside and out. It dare to the La Tene period of 150-1 BC.

I have been enchanted with Celtic and Viking artwork for as long as I can remember. I get lost in the curves, knots, scrolls and fanciful animals, drawn into a world that invites the imagination to go deeper…

I wandered through the impressive collection of Egyptian artifacts which was massive but the presentation was not so great. I also made a point of going to the Museum’s room on money which told the story of money but the collection itself was quite lean. I was hoping to see lots of Anglo Saxon and Celtic coins, and was quite disappointed that there were only a couple. In the Musee of Beaux Arts is Lyon had a lovely collection.

I found the outside architecture of the British Museum impressive but sterile, much as I found some of the exhibits. The best museums fit the collection to the space in pleasing ways. The Sutton Hoo and British rooms doing much better than the Egyptian or Roman collections, from my perspective. I am not a museum curator, but I know what I like and what engages me. The British Museum has grand architecture in and out, and masses of people but I  would visit the Victoria & Albert Museum any day, over the British Museum. It by contrast is warm, inviting and engaging. It reminds me of the huge warehouse “Toys R’ Us” [now defunct] versus your corner toy shop. The one has everything to the point of overwhelming and the other is intimate with someone who guides you to just what you are looking for. This drove home a salient truth for me. The organization of space, whether small or lofty and the presentation of objects inside that space matters to me, a lot more than I realized.

I found a little sanctuary within the British Museum. I met a man there who said he comes to this spot often. I took these photos visited the gift shop and went on my way. I hope I have not dissuaded you from going. I am glad I did, but it really wasn’t so much “my cuppa tea.”

The walk from the British Museum, along Charring Road, takes you through the heart of the Theatre District. Along with the Billboards in the Underground, every conceivable theatre production is here. A few of the sights.

Grabbed one of my meal deals and found a seat outside the National Portrait Gallery. I sat for a leisurely lunch while watching the world go by. I noted the Theatre across the Street and it was familiar. I texted Dale, and asked isn’t this the Garrick where we saw “Noises Off”? Hard to believe in a blink of an eye I could text Dale and get a response, “Yes.” I finished my lunch and entered the National Portrait Gallery. Unlike the British Museum, The Victoria & Albert, The National Gallery and the National Gallery are all FREE, although donations are welcome. I am particularly a fan of the Tudor Rooms with their life size portraits, rich in colors and detail. The lighting is dark to protect the paintings and it adds to the intimacy. I spent some time here.

Then a short walk to the elevator that takes you to the crypt under St Martin in the Fields Church. I didn’t end up going inside the church this visit. I had just missed entry into the mid day concert. On a previous visit I had heard a rehearsal for a chamber concert which included Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons.” The glass elevator is missed by most tourists. My last visit I stood in the crypt in a crowd of wall to wall people watching the first of several BREXIT votes. This one happened to be favorable to the crowd who were against BREXIT. The crypt has vaulted brick ceilings, a cafeteria, a brass rubbing station and a gift shop. This time the gift shop had shrunk (post Covid-19) and the brass rubbing station had moved into it. The gift shop still had a lively collection of books, cards, linens and housewares. I spent much longer than you might think trying not to buy a mug which would be too bulky and heavy to carry for the rest of the trip. In the end, against all reason I bought it and a box of Cartwright & Butler Lemon & Sultana Biscuits [shortbread type cookies with lemon & raisins] for friends back home. When I got back home it matched the card I received from my daughter.

I came back up into the light of day and wandered around Trafalgar square and even spent some time bench sitting and people watching.  It is a lively venue for both, especially on a sunny day. Leaving Trafalgar it’s a short walk to Charring Cross Station, which was closed. Argh! For all the wonders of the Underground, station closures, line closures and other misadventures it was often stressful. People are generally helpful, but occasionally give bad advice. I got on the right train once, going the wrong direction and was thwarted several times in having to do work arounds when service was disrupted. In spite of that it’s hard not to love the convenience. I walked to Embankment Station and made my way back to Earl’s Court. Even though not as centrally located I was pleased with my choice of a home base. My last night here before moving on to Tower Hill.

Kelly Wheaton ©2025 – All Rights Reserved