LONDON Day Four: Tower Hill
I slept in to 6:30 AM. I had mostly packed the night before. I suppose it is a bit of compulsive anxiety that causes that organizing and packing before being able to sleep. It allows me a more restful sleep knowing I am almost ready to go. Showered, dried my hair and went down to the solarium for breakfast. I was done, checked out and on my way by 9. Taking the Underground from Earl’s Court to Tower Hill takes 21 Minutes on the District Line.
Riding the subway you see a kaleidoscope of constantly changing people. Some are visitors like myself, who are trying to negotiate the peculiarities of the Underground and others are regulars who ride it daily. Cell phones are ubiquitous. They allow people to be doing something, but allow you to maintain the proper detachment from others [particularly when jammed in like sardines]. This morning there was a group of school children with matching tee shirts and backpacks and several teachers watching over them. The most likely people to engage with me were fellow travelers. This AM it was a man, about my son’s age, from Switzerland. Unlike my non-traveling self, I was not the one to initiate engagement, except when I needed help. “Does this train go to xyz?” “I think so, but I don’t live here,” was a typical interchange.
I arrived at Tower Hill Station, to yet another sunny, blue sky masterpiece. I had walked my way from the station to the hotel via Google Street view in advance of my trip. I had done this with many places so I would recognize them, and know where I was. In this case the hotel was steps from the train station however the entrance to the underground was around the corner. Some photos of the Roman Wall and Tower of London. As a side note Denise’s ancestor Robert CUSHMAN stayed very close to here.
The large sundial with historical timeline is worth a look. Then I arrived at my destination the Tower Suites Blue Orchid.
Since it was still before noon and check-in was 3 PM I dropped off my bag and went on my way. I should note this is a very convenient location. I was only staying a night but an upgrade to a view of the Tower of London should be considered. I had been to the Tower twice and was not planning on a third visit this trip. My destination was the ruins of St Dunstan in the East. However on the way I planned a repeat visit to All Hallows by the Tower. But first I visited the war memorial. You can see All Hallows through the memorial. Very moving.
The All Hallows by the Tower church is adjacent the Tower of London. The oldest church in the City of London, dating to 675 AD. It has survived the Great Fire of London and World War II bombings. The under croft has a lovely museum including Saxon artifacts. Of note to Americans is the parish Register showing the entry for William PENN Penn , the son of an English naval officer Sir William Penn, and Dutchwoman Margaret Jasper, who was widow of a Dutch sea captain and the daughter of a rich merchant from Rotterdam. This William PENN a prominent Quaker who would found the Province of Pennsylvania. He was an advocate for democracy and religious freedom.
From here it is a short couple of blocks to the West to take you to the ruins of St Dunstan in the East (which is to the west of All Hallows by the Tower). The church was largely destroyed in the Second World War and the ruins are now a public garden. St Dunstan’s was originally built about 1100. A new south aisle was added in 1391 and the church underwent repairs in 1631. It was badly damaged in the Great London Fire of 1666. A steeple was added in 1695–1701 to the designs of Sir Christopher Wren who is probably best known for his redesign of St Paul’s Cathedral in London and the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford. St Dunstan’s was severely damaged in the Blitz of 1941. Wren’s tower and steeple survived as well as the north and south walls. St Dunstan’s The parish is now combined with the Benefice of All Hallows by the Tower and occasional open-air services are held in the church. For most this ruin provides a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.
There were two thing that happened here. First I met a delightful couple, Romain & Juliette, from Strasbourg, France. Strasbourg is only 42 miles from Hunawihr where my Paternal grandmother’s HENNINGERs were from oriinginally. Hans Peter HENNINGER died the 15 March 1652 at Hunawihr. Just across the River from Strausbourg in Germany my ancestor Jacob KUTZ 1664-1728 lived in Offenbach. We shared a bench for a time and talked about many things including their work in sports marketing. We shared travel stories and it was a very welcome conversation after 4 days alone.
And we were witness to an angel. The ruins are a favorite photo shoot location, not surprisingly. I asked permission to take these photos. Not everyday you see an angel!
I made my way back via the Tower of London, taking the long way round by the River Thames before arriving at the hotel. Later tonight I will meet my tour group for dinner.
As it turned out Denise was not the only no show. It turned out there were only eleven of us! I met everyone but it took me a day to remember names. We had a lovely Italian dinner at the Cento Alla Torre ( at Tower Suites by Blue Orchid) and the best Minestrone soup ever! I had the pan-fried sword fish served with lemon and herb dressing and for dessert “Panna Cotta alla Lavande e vaniglia,” lavender, dairy free milk, vanilla and macerated strawberries. Yum, yum.
After dinner I asked if anyone was up for a walk. But with no takers I wandered out alone. And I wasn’t sorry. Please note the ceramic poppies in honor of VE day showed up best at night as they spilled out of the tower.
Kelly Wheaton ©2025 All Rights Reserved
Wheaton Wood 
tells me that coomments are closed. Trying again. Kelly, you have captured my City so perfectly, and like me, are adept at finding those little nooks and crannies that so well express my town, If you can, check out Wapping. Still a lot of this little seafaring “town” remains – stairs down to the river, old pub,churches, a grave yard, Best, Susan (Wheaton family)